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+⧖Last Thread: Halloween costume edition >Your print failed? Go to: www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting >Calibrate your printer. ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/ teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html If that doesn't help you solve your problems, post: >A picture of the failed part >Printer make & model >Filament type/brand >Slicer & slicer settings >What printer should I buy? Do your own research, but if you gotta ask; just buy whatever Bambu fits your budget. DIY: reprap.org/wiki/ SLA: >>>/tg/3dpg >Where can I get things to print? thingiverse.com/ thangs.com/ printables.com/ grabcad.com/ yeggi.com/ cults3d.com/ stlfinder.com/ google.com/ T*legr*m >What CAD software should I use? Free to anyone: FreeCAD, Fusion360, Onshape, TinkerCAD, Free to me: Autodesk Inventor, AutoCAD, Solidworks, Rhino, Solid Edge, ZBrush Autistic /g/ooners: OpenSCAD, OpenJSCAD, CadQuery, Microstation Participation medal entries: PTC Creo, Solvespace Mesh free-forming and modeling: Blender Architects: Sketchup, IngeTrazo >What slicer should I use? For everyone: Cura, PrusaSlicer, BambuStudio for Bambu owners. For enthusiasts: SuperSlicer, OrcaSlicer For autists: Pleccer/SuperPleccer, Kiri:Moto, FullControl, IceSL https://pastebin.com/AKqpcyN5 Last Thread: Halloween costume edition >Your print failed? Go to: www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting >Calibrate your printer. ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/ teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html If that doesn't help you solve your problems, post: >A picture of the failed part >Printer make & model >Filament type/brand >Slicer & slicer settings >What printer should I buy? Do your own research, but if you gotta ask; just buy whatever Bambu fits your budget. DIY: reprap.org/wiki/ SLA: >>>/tg/3dpg >Where can I get things to print? thingiverse.com/ thangs.com/ printables.com/ grabcad.com/ yeggi.com/ cults3d.com/ stlfinder.com/ google.com/ T*legr*m >What CAD software should I use? Free to anyone: FreeCAD, Fusion360, Onshape, TinkerCAD, Free to me: Autodesk Inventor, AutoCAD, Solidworks, Rhino, Solid Edge, ZBrush Autistic /g/ooners: OpenSCAD, OpenJSCAD, CadQuery, Microstation Participation medal entries: PTC Creo, Solvespace Mesh free-forming and modeling: Blender Architects: Sketchup, IngeTrazo >What slicer should I use? For everyone: Cura, PrusaSlicer, BambuStudio for Bambu owners. For enthusiasts: SuperSlicer, OrcaSlicer For autists: Pleccer/SuperPleccer, Kiri:Moto, FullControl, IceSL https://pastebin.com/AKqpcyN5
𓀐 @MW8GPP_g: i need some sort of filament dryer. i originally was going to get a food dehydrator because it felt like a "better" purchase, maybe i could use it for actually drying food or something (even though i've never needed a food dehydrator in my entire life). but then you can't print out of a dehydrator and you'd need some other bullshit to hold the spool while printing. is it worth just getting a purpose built filament dryer like pic related? i'd rather not have some nigger-rigged setup. i've been putting off using nylon and TPU because it's such a motherfucker to try and oven-dry it every time i want to use it.

You often don't need to print out of a filament drier, for non-CF PETG or for silk PLA it's definitely not a requirement, but for CF filaments, PA, TPU, or multi-day prints, it would help. PA-CF specifically would make me desire the ability to print directly from a drier, though I don't know how quickly it begins to absorb moisture. For drying nylons, cheap driers like that won't cut it. That Comgrow shitbox especially only goes up to 50C unless I read wrong. I'd be looking at something specifically high temperature like the Elegoo H1HT, Bambu AMS HT, or Sunlu E2. MyTechFun has some good videos on drying nylon filaments, if I recall 80C or above is preferred for nylons. >they all use the same technology No there's three broad categories. The cheap ones: >wide flat element, often self-regulating >less than 50W, usually with external power adapter >get up to 50C reliably after a short while, 60C can be a struggle >no airflow directly through the core of the heating element >often just a couple of power modes instead of temperature setting >sometimes have vent holes, usually rely on air leakage around gaps >often just a small fan to circulate air, sometimes no fan at all The mid-tier ones: >hollow heating element that air is forced through >usually 75-150W, usually direct AC input >can usually get up to 70C if not higher >proper temperature setting on the display >no humidity readout >usually a vent hole or two to let moisture out >decent airflow And the high-tier ones: >whatever fan and heater arrangement that can get up above 80C >at least 100W, usually direct AC input >measures and displays temperature and humidity >active vent that opens and closes when moisture needs to be released Do you mean turning scrap/pellets into filament? Or just respooling?

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