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Last Thread: Halloween costume edition >Your print failed? Go to: www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting >Calibrate your printer. ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/ teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html If that doesn't help you solve your problems, post: >A picture of the failed part >Printer make & model >Filament type/brand >Slicer & slicer settings >What printer should I buy? Do your own research, but if you gotta ask; just buy whatever Bambu fits your budget. DIY: reprap.org/wiki/ SLA: >>>/tg/3dpg >Where can I get things to print? thingiverse.com/ thangs.com/ printables.com/ grabcad.com/ yeggi.com/ cults3d.com/ stlfinder.com/ google.com/ T*legr*m >What CAD software should I use? Free to anyone: FreeCAD, Fusion360, Onshape, TinkerCAD, Free to me: Autodesk Inventor, AutoCAD, Solidworks, Rhino, Solid Edge, ZBrush Autistic /g/ooners: OpenSCAD, OpenJSCAD, CadQuery, Microstation Participation medal entries: PTC Creo, Solvespace Mesh free-forming and modeling: Blender Architects: Sketchup, IngeTrazo >What slicer should I use? For everyone: Cura, PrusaSlicer, BambuStudio for Bambu owners. For enthusiasts: SuperSlicer, OrcaSlicer For autists: Pleccer/SuperPleccer, Kiri:Moto, FullControl, IceSL https://pastebin.com/AKqpcyN5

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𓀐 @+dT*EN3Z: lmao+ 1

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𓀐 @-MYVzbKA: It really is interesting to see that people will literally have 0 seconds of critical thinking. Like he pulled that thatch hut model into his slicer, saw it generated 500g of supports and still pressed print (without even a calibration print first given the horrific stringing). Fascinating.+

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𓀐 @Rca?7VeA: >Are you a butcher by trade or why the fuck would you have a butcher apron kek. No, but my father was and I inherited his old stuff. >Ironically you did so well that I think having the hoodie up is kind of a shame, it hides a lot of the craftsmanship on the mask I guess that's the price I'll have to pay. The hoody and its shadow over the mask look way creepier imo. And I will not walk around with the hoody and mask on all the time. Because I don't want to end up all sober and shit.+

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𓀐 @qdsLK8~b: Is your printer occupied 24/7? Mine sits around not printing anything for 99.9% of the year. Time isn't the issue it's material cost and I'd just tell him to pay for it and that chances of failure are high because it's such a big part.+

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𓀐 @BtyD?Nkv: There's one seam about halfway up the hull, and then some of the hangs sagged a bit. I haven't 3d printed since that one made out of MDF came out, not sure what a good print looks like+

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𓀐 @WKJiWsPz: >want to buy a 3d printer >billion choices with unclear tradeoffs so whats good in the $500-$750 range+

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𓀐 @tvZJy_z3: I have been considering it for a while, as I sculpt stuff in 3D and it would be fun to print some of it. Is Bamboo the goto basic printer now?+ 1

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𓀐 @Tm3GKL=n: >Is Bamboo the goto basic printer now? Yes, Bamboo is the most "just works out of the box" brand at the moment for people who want a tool, not a hobby. And you can get started with an A1 mini for like 200$ and it's really good. Compared to more expensive options you'll be limited in filament choice and print volume, but other than that there's little in terms of tradeoffs. If you like figurines with many details like the one you posted, and you want to print them at a smaller scale (think anime figurine or like tabletop scale) you'll probably want a resin printer instead. They simply outcompete FDM in detail. In exchange they are more of a pain, cost more to run and produce far more fumes. So functional, you'll want to stick with FDM and bambu. High detail look into sla. In short: Functional prints, low hassle, cheap to print: FDM. Get a bambu that fits your budget. If you mostly want to print figurines with high details, consider resin instead. I'd advise against what suggests. It's coming from a good place, but "some tinkering" can be a giant pain in the ass. If you want to dive into that it can be fun, but if you care about the result, not the journey, don't do it. I used to have a 1.0 ender3 and it was miserable. Yeah I got similar results to more expensive machines, but I disliked using it because it came with continuous calibration and setup. Meanwhile my bambu printer is always instantly able to print, from anywhere, with zero setup.+

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𓀐 @VW3aPpwt: Can't believe people are advertising bambu. Its overpriced and its print quality is kinda meh when compared to other modern printers. Have a h2s at my lab and a qidi q2 at home. Q2 prints significantly better.+

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𓀐 @n6-a?joJ: quick test print for a battery compartment mod on a speak and spell thats got a raspi jammed in it. i had to hack away a bunch of it cause 1) there are metal tabs under the stickers that hold the front plate on and interfere with a flush fit on the bottom and 2) i didnt bother modeling cutouts for the gussets on the right side of the compartment so a hacksaw solved that. despite the perspective being wonk as fuck, taking a picture of it from above and dropping that in clender as a reference and scaling it wasnt terrible for a first attempt at matching a physical object.+ 1

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𓀐 @M5K-wYaE: oh+

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𓀐 @N5bVpyYo: Inb4 formlabs buys them out just to shut them down+ 3

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𓀐 @_bp?cvdT: >another powder bed printer This shit will never be viable as a consumer unit, the process is too finicky, metal powders are too hazardous and the lasers are expensive. They need to experiment with direct metal deposition the same way plasma or flame spraying is done.+

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𓀐 @pNH-V33g: Few things that cause me full body shivers as fast as >coming soon on kickstarter+

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𓀐 @6?*-P6HD: There's another one also launching called the mesa 1. Which looks interesting, from what I can tell it looks like it 3D prints with metal powder and a type of sand(?) layer by layer and then uses a furnace to cast it effectively rather than using lasers https://youtu.be/SRKj_QPDHXw?si=YZNkffrVBBGeS7LO+

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𓀐 @FR?K8Thq: Micronics were building a legit desktop metal printer, formlabs shut that shit down in 2024+

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𓀐 @MW8GPP_g: i need some sort of filament dryer. i originally was going to get a food dehydrator because it felt like a "better" purchase, maybe i could use it for actually drying food or something (even though i've never needed a food dehydrator in my entire life). but then you can't print out of a dehydrator and you'd need some other bullshit to hold the spool while printing. is it worth just getting a purpose built filament dryer like pic related? i'd rather not have some nigger-rigged setup. i've been putting off using nylon and TPU because it's such a motherfucker to try and oven-dry it every time i want to use it.+ 2

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𓀐 @cs+Rv82W: >i'd rather not have some nigger-rigged setup If you want a ready to use purpose-built solution, then the kind you posted which heat the filament is the only option, they all use the same technology. The only real alternatives are either desiccant (you have to manually refill/refresh), or solid-state moisture-removal, which is expensive and I haven't seen one integrated into the device, you still have to manually design an enclosure for those.+

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𓀐 @DWHmQ5BU: You often don't need to print out of a filament drier, for non-CF PETG or for silk PLA it's definitely not a requirement, but for CF filaments, PA, TPU, or multi-day prints, it would help. PA-CF specifically would make me desire the ability to print directly from a drier, though I don't know how quickly it begins to absorb moisture. For drying nylons, cheap driers like that won't cut it. That Comgrow shitbox especially only goes up to 50C unless I read wrong. I'd be looking at something specifically high temperature like the Elegoo H1HT, Bambu AMS HT, or Sunlu E2. MyTechFun has some good videos on drying nylon filaments, if I recall 80C or above is preferred for nylons. >they all use the same technology No there's three broad categories. The cheap ones: >wide flat element, often self-regulating >less than 50W, usually with external power adapter >get up to 50C reliably after a short while, 60C can be a struggle >no airflow directly through the core of the heating element >often just a couple of power modes instead of temperature setting >sometimes have vent holes, usually rely on air leakage around gaps >often just a small fan to circulate air, sometimes no fan at all The mid-tier ones: >hollow heating element that air is forced through >usually 75-150W, usually direct AC input >can usually get up to 70C if not higher >proper temperature setting on the display >no humidity readout >usually a vent hole or two to let moisture out >decent airflow And the high-tier ones: >whatever fan and heater arrangement that can get up above 80C >at least 100W, usually direct AC input >measures and displays temperature and humidity >active vent that opens and closes when moisture needs to be released Do you mean turning scrap/pellets into filament? Or just respooling?+

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𓀐 @YL*Squ3G: Hurt the top of my foot after doing sit-ups with my feet under the hard edge of my bed for a year or so. So I made this thing out of wood and some old clothes, but then I started hurting my foot by banging it into the wood. So I printed these things in TPU with low infill. Distinctly less painful.+ 1

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𓀐 @bV3u6Zyw: id have gone with a cut up pool noodle+

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𓀐 @TREKNBBD: The current meta is air fryers with a dehydrate setting. You guys are way behind the times.+

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𓀐 @KZ_oNzwV: >way to miss the point A heated vacuum would be inefficient by definition. It's a joke on fads.+

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𓀐 @dmDnTkfi: Halloween costume is done. Originally started thinking about making it in , but only started printing in . Learned a shitload: First time having to print something in parts, first time painting a print by hand, first time in a long time sewing, fist time drilling into PLA, first time trying to reinforce an insert without adequate support. I managed to finish the mask/skull, a headband with attachment pieces custom sewn around my head shape, stilts and adapters and made 3 necklaces, two with 5 bone plates each and one consisting of around 30 bones of varying dimensions and shapes. The skull is hollow, with the beak having a separate chamber from the skull cavity, with 6 holes in the beak. The idea was to have a fog machine create fog and release it through the beak, but the vape pods I'd have needed for that were out of stock. The upper part of the skull is kept in place with inserted magnets, so easy to create the internals next year. The coat will have to be a project for another year, as will be getting some fabric paint to draw runes onto the red scarf and making foam pads on the shoulders to ease the transition from neck to shoulder. This was the lowest budget option that somewhat worked within a dew days; a black coat that hides the transition from head to skull for like 5€. The way it works is that there's a harness you wear over your head, with the skull hovering over your head on stilts which also makes me 7'3", adding to the creepy factor. Pretty sure if I wear that and you only see me from the distance it'd be creepy. Dedicated to , his weathering stuff genuinely motivated me to make it real.+

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𓀐 @+sgA=7y~: Do you guys recicle the material when something goes wrong? is there a practical/cheap way to do it?+

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𓀐 @j=Vc6sp~: Any ideas for useful prints? whenever I browse stl sites they're just full of plastic waste like funko pops and random trinket garbage+

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𓀐 @i62gMMt-: Kids these days like lootboxes so their Halloween treats shall be inside a pumpkin lootbox.+ 1

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𓀐 @-B3RM5dF: add a secret compartment for uranium so you give the immigrant kids cancer+

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𓀐 @_oFGNVgr: >calibrate ender3 >install mainsail, flash klipper >print a couple things over a week or two >dont use it for 3 months so I guess I fell for the meme, if you're not designing your own parts then you're just a poser+

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𓀐 @3LHjdM=T: You have lived long enough to see yourself become the villain. On the other hand, it’s definitely better for their teeth and diet. Except for a few particularly stupid kids. Nice. So many things are made of plastic, fixing plastic things with our printers should be the norm. I’m not sure if a milled bed for a bedslinger is a good idea. Heavy, unless it’s got an isogrid pattern milled out of its underside. Is sheet carbon fibre worth looking into? It’s very rigid. A sheet spaced apart from another carbon sheet/frame would make it even more so. Isn’t the A1 series known for its overheating mains thermistor? I think that’s fixed in more recent stock, but I heard there’s another similar issue that’s still there.+

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𓀐 @En*nFkfw: Consider the U1 is really only good for pla and petg. I for one am still waiting for qidi to confirm the rumours of a dual nozzle machine. 300+mm bed, heated chamber, stupid hot nozzle, basic bitch klipper.+

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𓀐 @RjzuTVru: i'm looking to design some very basic 3d printed parts to interface with some vslot aluminum tube etc. anyone have any good advice for tutorials or learning things to build fundamental modeling skills?+

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𓀐 @6w=ycP9L: does basic bitch petg and pla need any special handling? neither is hydophilic afaik, can i just toss it into a drawer and be done with it? or should i splurge on some ams-esque thingy t. know nothing retard+

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𓀐 @JvZRy_nf: Thank you for the breakdown. It was very helpful. I don't foresee myself printing anything at an "engineering material" level, but, I'm sure there will be projects down the line that'll call for them. Why? Seems like I could put in an extra $150 and get a P2S, which I've read is light years better than the P1S. For anons with Bambu printers, how do you feel about the closed ecosystem? Seems pretty anti-consumer. I'm interested in printers that aren't as locked down, but maybe Bambu's ecosystem isn't as closed down as other products like Apple and it's not as big of a deal as I think it is.+ 1

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𓀐 @HHA-heZp: do you tinker with your phones operating system?+

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𓀐 @fm6RPV*T: non-print toolheads are a meme but apart from non-planar printing MMS is the best thing since slicer branches. Multi-nozzle is interesting too, I can see it being a power version of Variable Layer Height. The really fucked up thing is the people who truly don't care about MMS and toolheads are the ones shitting out rainbow filament articulated dragons all day. That's your single filament print syster right there.+

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𓀐 @LoKFiXF=: so what's the eta on metal 'printers' / desktop mini-cnc machines+

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𓀐 @wf8tWn2r: 3D-printing an tank out of LGBT plastic was a mistake.+

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𓀐 @up=e*4ff: i'm tempted to model and print a few of these to sell on etsy as a non-descript figurine stand some poor souls will buy those without knowing what it is and will be in for a funny learning experience once they post it on the interwebs+

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